Comillas: in the jail

Hello, everyone.
As it says in today's title, we are sleeping in the old jail tonight.

Our little room. We both have top bunks.
Ultreia .

Santillana del Mar: the Three Lies

Hello, everyone.
The Three Lies of Santillana, the title reads. And all 3 of them are in the village's name. It is not on the sea, number 1. It has no wool (lana), number 2. And it has no saint/is not holy, number 3.
When we walked over the hill into the edge of yet another hill village yesterday afternoon after walking about 29 kilometers, we felt lost and looked at the conveniently placed info map, only to discover that we had arrived at our goal. We had been fooled by one of the 3 lies. 😂
We are taking a rest day in Santillana. We have visited the Alta Mira Cave museum with cave replica and enjoyed it a lot. (For the most benefit you should have some Spanish, as then you can profit from the guided walk-through of the replica cave.)
We have discovered the workshop where some lovely carved wood furniture is made.

 A partially finished headboard.

The pension where we have taken a room. The crafter's showroom is on the ground floor. We are in one of the habitaciones on the upper floor.

Santander

Hello, everyone.
We left Guemes about 7:30 this morning. After Father Enrique and his volunteers worked so hard to put out bread, some kind of nut bar (?) And trimmings like jam, hot milk pitchers, hot water and tea bags, and coffee, we had to spend a minute in the dining room with them.
Father Enrique's stories about how the albergue came to be, and some of his family history, were very interesting. He also showed route information on the map to everyone.
We mostly took the coastal walk today--didn't get the tablet out to make path pictures, sorry--and most of it was lovely. Only a couple of muddy bits. Then we walked on the sand of the beach of Somo for maybe a quarter mile or so, until the beach access just before the last house. There was a bar there. In my opinion those folks have a license to print money. They certainly sold us some coffee and tea and a slice of tortilla with tuna and tomato on top. There are no other bars on this beach, and it looked like that was the only beach access, too.
We took the ferry ride across to Santander. This city is reasonably big.

What do you do if the connected building in the middle of the row is wrecked? The others were depending on it. Answer, you leave a bunch of beams in between and add some metal braces to keep it all up. We have seen this solution in other places, too, here in Spain.
Tomorrow we will head towards Santillana del Mar. As it will be Tuesday I hope museums will be open. (Today no museums in Santander were open. It's Monday.)
Ultreia.

Guemes

Hello, everyone.
We are at the famous albergue at Guemes tonight. The volunteers running things are wonderful. We turned up at the door about 1 and even before we checked in they fed us lentil soup! And a good soup it was, too.

 The alburgue's symbol, on display at the Ermita San Julian a few blocks away.

Our room has triple bunks! The blue sheets and blankets are provided.
There is much informative discussion about the albergue on The Camino Forum.
Tomorrow we will head towards Santander.
Ultreia.

Noja

Hello, everyone.
We took a short day today. The last two had been tough and we had gotten in too late to take care of things like laundry. Today we perched at around 1, got directions to the laundromat (lavanderia in Spanish) and headed over there with almost every stitch we're carrying. The walk was a kilometer, but  after you put the pack down it feels like you're floating so we didn't mind. We looked out the window while the cycle progressed and saw dark clouds gathering. "Hmm," we thought. After the clothes finished we went out to walk back and discovered that the clouds had Noja in mind today! We hustled. And we almost got back before the heavens opened in a deluge.
Fortunately we were in front of a bar when it got really thick and we ducked inside until it stopped. Then we went to the room.

Later we walked around a bit.

The beach at Noja, after a storm, with rainbow

Tomorrow we will head towards Guemes.
Ultreia.

In Laredo, the one with a beach

Hello, everyone.

We hadn't really planned to walk to Laredo today, but days go as they will sometimes and we found ourselves walking over a headland and into Laredo.

I was too tired to pull out the tablet to get a picture, so for photos y'all will have to wait until we get home.

We're staying at the albergue operated by the Trinitarian nuns. Santa Maria de la Asuncion, my sweetie says. The sisters have a modern-like building rigged up as a guest house with about 5 beds in a room. (The beds are actual beds, not bunks.) Our roomies are a lovely French couple and a Swiss fellow that we had great conversation with today while walking. You can meet people from just about anywhere on the Camino. There are even some people from Singapore.

It's just about time for lights out so I will close this.
Ultreia.

A last note about Bilbao, and today

Hello, everyone.

Yesterday after the post was done, we found some time to investigate a museum that we hadn't known about until leaving last year at 0630 to the airport. (A time when if we see a new thing we can't do anything about it.)

This is the view of the Archeology Museum of the Basque region. They have made clear, informative displays about such things as Neanderthal man's traces, the Visigothic culture, and so on. The museum is located in the Casco Viejo, the old city area, adjacent to the Plaza Nueva.

Today we rode the Bilbao Metro to Portugalete, about 6 miles, and started walking from there. At first we were on a bike and walk trail. It reminds me of the Hike and Bike at home, except that there is enough space for the bike riders not to have to sharr with the walkers.
After that we were mostly on more paved walking trails, with some other surfaces. The Cantabrian Sea was close by and we were walking in fresh, cool sea breezes. I did trip over a rock once, but am fine.
We ate a nice late breakfast at the Las Arenas beach resort, then continued on over trails, paths, and boardwalks to Castro-Urdiales. There are plans to hit the pillow early after putting in the miles today.

Rest day in Bilbao

Hello, everyone.

We have been enjoying a rest day today--defined as not wearing packs while walking. We did stroll about the city some.

Ate berejena stuffed with bacalao for lunch--this was part of a Menu del Dia. (Menu del Dia is said to have been pushed by Gen. Franco's government as he is said to have insisted that a working man should be able to buy his main meal for a decent price. They are also found in Portugal.) The starter course for me was caprese salad: tender goat cheese slices between tomato wedges with assorted green bits as a base. And for the chaser a milk pudding, creamy and with little or no sugar the way I like it.

We also strolled over to the famous Guggenheim modern art museum. The outsides were interesting but I confess to having no interest in modern art so we just enjoyed the outside and went on our way.

I do like the flowered puppy out front.
Ultreia.

Bilbao (updated for details)

Hello, everyone.

We enjoyed our night at the albergue in Larrabetzu and made our way to Bilbao.
The local cathedral is dedicated to Santiago; this is unusual.
The cathedral has an Adoration chapel near the entrance.
Bring your credencial (as a pilgrim you will want to keep it handy all the time) and after they stamp it they will let you in for no charge. (It is not uncommon for religious sites that get a lot of tourists to charge admission in Spain. If you don't want to pay, go to Mass--that's free--and then discreetly stay after to view the statues and images.)
One of Santiago's most famous experiences, his visitation by Our Lady of the Pilar, is depicted there. There is also an exhibit area in the sacristy with some antique embroidered pieces and altar items.

This is a very evocative door. It is covered in metal stars. Why is it evocative? Because Santiago's relics were found after the grave had been lost, by an ordinary man, who saw stars or lights manifested in the field. The folk etimology of Compostela refers to the event. (Of course, since it was a graveyard, full of stone markers--stelae--there may be more than one reference in the name of Santiago de Compostela.)
Ultreia.

Now in Larrabetzu

Hello, everyone.

Today we walked to Larrabetzu, a lovely village whose inhabitants are very interested in the Basque political movement. (Many posters in the area along trails and such.)
Our departure from Gernika was about 7 in the morning. The days have been nice for walking, even the warm ones, because we have not yet walked in a pouring rainstorm. This is very much a blessing. Especially on the sorts of mostly unimproved trails that are a part of every day's walk. With bonus roots and rocks! Bring your hiking sticks and use them.

 This is one of the many posted maps in the villages. It is marked with symbols of things pilgrims might need that are in the villages.

This is a really interesting painted building in the square. It reminds me of the houses in the Bavarian villages that my parents shoed me when we were stationed there.
Tomorrow we hope to reach Bilbao and have a rest day.
Ultreia!

Now in Gernika

Hello, everyone.
Yesterday we reached Markina about 4 pm, after a very long and trying walk. (From 0730 until about 4. Lots of ups and downs!) We were lucky to be walking on Saturday, when the little bar in Olatz was open. We reached it around 9:30. At around 1 we encountered a little table next to a farmhouse, selling soft drinks and muffins. (Got Aquarius, a rehydration drink, and a Coke, and sat in nearby grass to eat sardines on baguette for our lunch.) The last 10 kilometers took almost 3 hours, for 6.2 miles, but it was yet more up and down.
When we got into town, we found the convent albergue and commenced to doing laundry.
The we went out for a Pilgrim's Menu. This is the first course:

Lots of little clams in this. It was wonderful. The main course was marinated cod, cooked and with a sauce, and garnished with fried potatoes. There was also the usual bread, wine, and dessert.
Today we walked to Gernika and again reached town around 4 pm. (We would prefer to get out earlier and arrive earler, but taping feet takes time in the morning. I am going to try and speed it up!)
Ultreia.

Deba: the Municipal albergue

Hello, everyone.
Today we left late, at a bit after 7. We got to Zumaia around 9 and had tortilla de patata and cafe leche for breakfast. The we walked on part of the famous Ruta del Flysh, on the seaside to see some of the famous layered rocks. This was very tough--lots of climbing up and down--and it kicked us. When we encountered the turn off for the later part, we took a pass. Got into Deba about 3:30, and sat down for a drink while waiting for the tourist office to reopen after the end of siesta.
No picture for today as the internet is temperamental here.
Tomorrow we try to reach Markina.
Ultreia !

Getaria: Kanpaia

Hello, everyone.
Today we walked from San Sebastian to Getaria. I estimate the distance at about 26 km. (26/3=8.667×2=17.3 miles appx.) For my Texas readers, temperatures here have not exceeded 18c since we arrived...read'em and weep!

We ate an apple each at around 10 am for an alfresco breakfast on the remote trail. Why, you ask. Because we headed out at 6:30 and nothing was open yet. But! We got our first coffee of the day at 11 in Orio. Then walked through Zarauz (lovely town. If you stay there, try the fish soup.) And continued on by the pretty waterfront promenade to Getaria. Where DH had a Coke and I had my second cafe leche of the day, at about 2:30 pm.

Tomorrow we will head over to Zumaia and then Deba.

Ultreia!

San Sebastian

Hello, everyone.

After spending about 18 hours or so in airports and planes, then hopping a bus from the San Sebastian airport into town, we are here.
We visited the famous San Telmo museum. There were some interesting items on display. I thought the carved designs on tombstones were neat.
As we're really tired, there is no picture for today.

Pilgrimage 2018 is heading out

Hello everyone.

I think it was Bilbo who is supposed to have said "It's a dangerous thing to go out your door" and then reflected on how the road goes on and on.

The Camino is like that, too. It calls, and when you have answered sometimes you discover that it has built a homing beacon into your heart.

We hope to make it to Santiago's tomb this year, and to pay respects also to Our Lady of Covadonga and at Oviedo. "God willing and the creek don't rise" as they say.

Here is my personal pack load, except for the Teva sandals, hiking poles, and electronics like this device.

Wear one, pack two, as the fellow who posted his 5 kg pack video to the Camino Forum said: 2 shirts, 2 panties, 2 sock pairs (Injinji low cut lightweight) in the pack. 1 bra in the pack. 1 fleece pullover, 1 windbreaker, 1 pair of shorts--wearing the zip off pants, 1 Icebreaker merino tank dress (splurge), 1 rain poncho. The merino Infinity Buff. The two packed shirts are 1 Icebreaker tank and 1 BCG tee, the shirt I am wearing is a long sleeved ripstop.
Dopp box has toothbrush, tiny powder, razor, ear swabs, toothpaste, hairbrush, a head band and a hair liga, and a small bottle of hair/body/clothes wash. Also a poly fast dry towel. Also the little mesh box with hiking pole tips.
The Fabulous Bag to put the pack in for the flight, a dry clothes bag for the shower, a mesh bag for dirty clothes or shopping, the bag for the sleeping bag liner.
Sleeping bag and liner.
If I remember them all correctly!
Ultreia!

Bead embroidery color play 3

Hello everyone.

This is a little update on the scallop shell.

As y'all can see, the #15 pink rocailles are almost filled in. They look better alongside the ivory colored perles.
Next after these are filled in, the base of the shell. The best matches in the stash are either 3mm Swarovski perles (left over from the wedding dress a few years back) or some #11 Opaque Rainbow Cream Delicas. (That is a lot of words to spell out ivory, isn't it?)
It may become a brooch in the end. It might even get some dangling fringe! But it's too soon to commit on the final finish.

A bread experiment

Hello everyone.

We've been trying new ideas lately. We had deviled eggs for lunch yesterday instead of sandwiches. Today an experiment with bread dough.

This is a Cheese and pine nut ring rising. (Not a sweet roll)
The plan is for the cheese shreds and pine nuts to make friends with the bread dough and be yummy after baking. At worst, it becomes an awkward, spread out sort of rolls ring. Which isn't bad. At best, a winner.
So here goes!

It's getting close!

Hello everyone.

Our return to the Camino is coming.

Today we took the packs and sleeping gear outside for spraying.
(Yes I am going to take a new sleeping bag this time. It's one of the Big Agnes ones that was promoted by REI a few months back. It's almost half a pound lighter than the old green one.)

Ultreia!

Bead embroidery color play 2

Hello, everyone.

This is an update on the color experiment with the bead embroidery. More was done on the iridescent pink filler beads.

As y'all can see, the iridescent beads on the left just don't work out very well. On the right side of the scallop shell, #15 rocailles in ceylon pale pink are working out better. (After this picture the iridescent beads were pulled out and put back in their box. The shell will be filled in with the #15 beads instead.)

While the last post was photographed and posted with the tablet, today's post was a cooperative effort (if inanimate objects can have such a thing!) of the cell phone camera and the desktop computer. I was unable to figure out how to log into the blog account to use the cell phone for posting. Fortunately, the tablet will be with us on the pilgrimage.

Color play: bead embroidery edition

Hello everyone.

Today, to get in practice for posting from the Camino, a small exploration of colors in a bead embroidery.

The piece is a scallop shell, being sewn onto a bit of, I think, Peltex.
Beads used so far: some ovals inherited from my late MIL and pink, excuse me, rainbow cream soda translucent #11 Dynamites that were bought from Fire Mountain Gems.

Several other candidate beads are nearby.

Spring time at Santa Ana NWR

Hello, everyone.

This is a bird we saw (and heard!) the last time we walked at Santa Ana.

He had a large song vocabulary, and a desire to show it all off. When he had sung the whole lot from one tree, he moved to another and did it again.