Rest day in Bilbao

Hello, everyone.

We have been enjoying a rest day today--defined as not wearing packs while walking. We did stroll about the city some.

Ate berejena stuffed with bacalao for lunch--this was part of a Menu del Dia. (Menu del Dia is said to have been pushed by Gen. Franco's government as he is said to have insisted that a working man should be able to buy his main meal for a decent price. They are also found in Portugal.) The starter course for me was caprese salad: tender goat cheese slices between tomato wedges with assorted green bits as a base. And for the chaser a milk pudding, creamy and with little or no sugar the way I like it.

We also strolled over to the famous Guggenheim modern art museum. The outsides were interesting but I confess to having no interest in modern art so we just enjoyed the outside and went on our way.

I do like the flowered puppy out front.
Ultreia.

Bilbao (updated for details)

Hello, everyone.

We enjoyed our night at the albergue in Larrabetzu and made our way to Bilbao.
The local cathedral is dedicated to Santiago; this is unusual.
The cathedral has an Adoration chapel near the entrance.
Bring your credencial (as a pilgrim you will want to keep it handy all the time) and after they stamp it they will let you in for no charge. (It is not uncommon for religious sites that get a lot of tourists to charge admission in Spain. If you don't want to pay, go to Mass--that's free--and then discreetly stay after to view the statues and images.)
One of Santiago's most famous experiences, his visitation by Our Lady of the Pilar, is depicted there. There is also an exhibit area in the sacristy with some antique embroidered pieces and altar items.

This is a very evocative door. It is covered in metal stars. Why is it evocative? Because Santiago's relics were found after the grave had been lost, by an ordinary man, who saw stars or lights manifested in the field. The folk etimology of Compostela refers to the event. (Of course, since it was a graveyard, full of stone markers--stelae--there may be more than one reference in the name of Santiago de Compostela.)
Ultreia.

Now in Larrabetzu

Hello, everyone.

Today we walked to Larrabetzu, a lovely village whose inhabitants are very interested in the Basque political movement. (Many posters in the area along trails and such.)
Our departure from Gernika was about 7 in the morning. The days have been nice for walking, even the warm ones, because we have not yet walked in a pouring rainstorm. This is very much a blessing. Especially on the sorts of mostly unimproved trails that are a part of every day's walk. With bonus roots and rocks! Bring your hiking sticks and use them.

 This is one of the many posted maps in the villages. It is marked with symbols of things pilgrims might need that are in the villages.

This is a really interesting painted building in the square. It reminds me of the houses in the Bavarian villages that my parents shoed me when we were stationed there.
Tomorrow we hope to reach Bilbao and have a rest day.
Ultreia!

Now in Gernika

Hello, everyone.
Yesterday we reached Markina about 4 pm, after a very long and trying walk. (From 0730 until about 4. Lots of ups and downs!) We were lucky to be walking on Saturday, when the little bar in Olatz was open. We reached it around 9:30. At around 1 we encountered a little table next to a farmhouse, selling soft drinks and muffins. (Got Aquarius, a rehydration drink, and a Coke, and sat in nearby grass to eat sardines on baguette for our lunch.) The last 10 kilometers took almost 3 hours, for 6.2 miles, but it was yet more up and down.
When we got into town, we found the convent albergue and commenced to doing laundry.
The we went out for a Pilgrim's Menu. This is the first course:

Lots of little clams in this. It was wonderful. The main course was marinated cod, cooked and with a sauce, and garnished with fried potatoes. There was also the usual bread, wine, and dessert.
Today we walked to Gernika and again reached town around 4 pm. (We would prefer to get out earlier and arrive earler, but taping feet takes time in the morning. I am going to try and speed it up!)
Ultreia.

Deba: the Municipal albergue

Hello, everyone.
Today we left late, at a bit after 7. We got to Zumaia around 9 and had tortilla de patata and cafe leche for breakfast. The we walked on part of the famous Ruta del Flysh, on the seaside to see some of the famous layered rocks. This was very tough--lots of climbing up and down--and it kicked us. When we encountered the turn off for the later part, we took a pass. Got into Deba about 3:30, and sat down for a drink while waiting for the tourist office to reopen after the end of siesta.
No picture for today as the internet is temperamental here.
Tomorrow we try to reach Markina.
Ultreia !

Getaria: Kanpaia

Hello, everyone.
Today we walked from San Sebastian to Getaria. I estimate the distance at about 26 km. (26/3=8.667×2=17.3 miles appx.) For my Texas readers, temperatures here have not exceeded 18c since we arrived...read'em and weep!

We ate an apple each at around 10 am for an alfresco breakfast on the remote trail. Why, you ask. Because we headed out at 6:30 and nothing was open yet. But! We got our first coffee of the day at 11 in Orio. Then walked through Zarauz (lovely town. If you stay there, try the fish soup.) And continued on by the pretty waterfront promenade to Getaria. Where DH had a Coke and I had my second cafe leche of the day, at about 2:30 pm.

Tomorrow we will head over to Zumaia and then Deba.

Ultreia!

San Sebastian

Hello, everyone.

After spending about 18 hours or so in airports and planes, then hopping a bus from the San Sebastian airport into town, we are here.
We visited the famous San Telmo museum. There were some interesting items on display. I thought the carved designs on tombstones were neat.
As we're really tired, there is no picture for today.