A pretty walk

Hello, everyone.

We walked from Redondela to Pontevedra today. We're very tired from yesterday, so before we wander out in search of food, we're going to rest a bit.

This is one of the pictures of the fort in Valenca, which froze when I tried to upload it that day.

Of interest to my fellow chicken lovers, the most common variety of birds we have seen is the Naked Neck. A cafe owner told us today that so many people keep them because they're good layers.

It all goes for 20 (miles, that is)

Hello, everyone.

We weren't trying to walk for 20 (30 km in euro-zone distances) but that's what we ended up with today.

We're in Redondela, which is near a ignoramus freshwater lake. It's also a town that has basically no hotels. Too bad, that. We had hoped to snag a pension room and soak our sore legs and feet, but it didn't happen. Instead we're in the Xunta (provincial) Albergue and it's not bad. In the reference frame bunk beds. There is a lovely big study downstairs, too.

River view from Fortaleza in Valenca yesterday.

Cathedral in Tui, Spain. There is a big sculpture the the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin hanging over the altar.

We're in Spain!

Hello, everyone.

I had a nap and a wonderful serving of tortilla espanola before starting this, so maybe I'll remember where we are tonight!

We're in Tui, in Pontevedra, in Galicia, Spain. It's just across a bridge from Valenca, Portugal. The cathedral here is beautiful, and it has two statues of St. James major: Santiago Peregrino with his gourd, staff, and cloak, and Santiago Matamoros, on horseback with sword of justice raised.

Bom Jesus isn't the only thing in Braga

Hello, everyone.

We took a bonus day at Barcelos, because it's near the famous site of Bom Jesus Chapel in Braga. When the sun peeped over the horizon this morning we tried to sleep in. We made it to about 7 before getting up.

The bus to Brava stops right at the square in Barcelos, and we just jumped on, paid the driver, and relaxed for the hour drive. We arrived in Brava at 9 and discovered the town square festooned with banners and other decorations. "Oh, that's right, the whole country is having a weeks-long party for St. John's day." Then we heard a strong marching cadence strike up. (Very heavy on the bass drums!) Boom! (Pause) Boom! (Pause) Boom! (Pause) and the drum corps was off and going. We had arrived just before the Marchas de Sao Joao.

I think there were at least 7 drum groups and bands, plus giant puppets and another 8 or more folkloric groups. All wending their way through tiny stone medieval streets in the town center. A number of the drum groups revved up and got going again from time to time during the day, too.

We had heard the (smaller) parade the day before yesterday in Vila do Conde.

DH went outside and snapped this in Vila do Conde while I was washing socks.

This morning in Braga:

After the parade finished, we caught the city bus out to Bom Jesus which is at the very edge of Braga on a hill. The stone work and sculptures are amazing.

This was the half-way point, after the Way of the Cross themed works and before the allegorical works. At the very top is a chapel and a garden and a gift shop. 

Barcelos

Hello, everyone.

This morning we rolled out at 0630, bright eyed and bushy-tailed, ready to troop right down the gray-dots route to Sao Pedro de Rates and on to Barcelos. For about forty minutes. Then we conceded that we weren't up to walking an un-waymarked route and went back and found the yellow arrows that led to Arco. (This name still reminds me of trudging through a Hatfield last year, part of a long line of pilgrims, about a mile aside from a ridge of thunderstorm generating hills. Each pilgrim or pair about twenty feet behind the one in front, all of us collectively one of the tallest things out there, and the thunder sound only two seconds behind the lightning flash. Have I mentioned that lightning scares me?) But this Arco was devoid of storms. Between the floundering at the start and the scheduled walk for the day, we put in almost twenty miles. And our feet have a lot to say about long days now!

When we got to Barcelos, DH found a Mass to attend and we were blessed--the first Pilgrim Blessing we have received on the trip so far! I want to gratefully mention the Franciscan fathers at St. Anthony's church in Barcelos.

And here is a picture of the famous Barcelos miracle chicken. (I admit that I haven't read the story yet.)

Gorgeous

Hello, everyone.

Today we started walking again. First we caught the 0640 bus to Matosinhos, a port and beach town at the edge of Porto. Then we walked across a drawbridge to the north side of the ship channel and began walking along the beaches.

This is just a taste. There are tidal pools, dunes, blue water of unbelievable clarity and it looked like they don't have rip current along there. There were boardwalks most of the way, too.

Egg run in Porto

Hello, everyone.

This morning we followed an ancient family tradition: the "egg run." Back when dinosaurs walked, my late FIL was a plant floor manager. From time to time on as weekend he'd say that he was "going to get eggs," take one of his sons to help drive, and head out on country roads. He always managed to hit the bars that knowledgeable fellow employees went to and after having drink-and-talk in several he'd get to the egg farm, get some eggs, and head back toward home. It became a family legend.

Today we walked across the bridge to the other side of the river Douro and commenced to some serious wine tasting. (And when we get home and I can load the camera pictures into the computer, I'll share photos with y'all.) We learned that all Portuguese wine wants to be sweet. Thus the Portuguese ports are also sweet. And these are nothing at all like the/ "port wine" being made by various Texas wine makers.

"Melon gazpacho" at the famous, and excellent, Tapabente restaurant last night. It was stifling hot, especially in the restaurant, and since we hadn't known to call for reservations the only place they had left to seat us was at the bar. We got to watch the bar staff working. That was possibly the most precise and artistic drink making on earth. If it weren't even hotter today, I'd want to go back. But, lesson learned: if you want to eat at Tapabente, behind the train station at Sao Bente, you need to make reservations.