Hello, everyone.
This is a small note about how the dopp boxes worked out in practice.
1. They have enough space, if one uses the elastic loops on the lid for storing some things. Otherwise, if one puts the stuff in there in a heap, it becomes somewhat frustrating.
2. A construction note: while most of the seams were glued with Fray-chek after sewing to keep the fabric from raveling, the zipper seams were double stitched and not glued. This was a mistake. Both ripstop and flag fabric ravel like nobody's business. They should have been glued at the edges like the other seams.
3. The shape of the box was reinforced and somewhat defined by the placement of toothbrush, hairbrush, and the folded camper's towel. If one doesn't use the contents to stabilize the shape, the little square turns into a somewhat shapeless lump. (See comment #1.) The standard blow drying brush fit exactly into the diagonal of the box and the toothbrush did also. The other items fit into the triangles of space on either side of the hairbrush.
It's still a good answer to the toiletries problem, at least after the necessary glue lines are added, and is worth re-use on future trips. As deodorant was kept in a folded plastic bag instead of a push-up tube, it just went into the corner. Cotton swabs were in a small box that exactly fit along the side and was exactly the right height to help with the shape as well.
(No picture needed on this post, I think.)
Saturday, June 30, 2018
Wednesday, June 27, 2018
Yum.
Hello, everyone.
This is just a quick note appreciating the place DH likes best for breakfast in Madrid. Possibly in all of Spain!
They have pastries and pastries and pastries. Also of course cafe con leche. There is also a salon upstairs with table service.
That's all for today!
This is just a quick note appreciating the place DH likes best for breakfast in Madrid. Possibly in all of Spain!
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| La Mallorquina at Puerto del Sol |
That's all for today!
Tuesday, June 26, 2018
El Escorial visit
Hello, everyone.
Today we went out to the famous El Escorial monastery and royal residence.
First we went to our local Metro station and rode to the Moncloa interchange. Then we boarded a bus and rode for over an hour (it was rush hour) to the village 50 km from Madrid and strolled from the bus station to the monastery.
There is a lot of beautiful and edifying art there. The museum does not have a bin ov prints of art works to buy, nor does it have a Print on Demand kiosk in the gift shop. (Sad) They should get with the Prado or the Muso Thyssen-Bournemisza about how to set it up. Really. There were some paintings that I would love to have a print of hanging there.
There is a basilica which is beautiful and full of art. It has an Adoration chapel, too. It wasn't clear to me whether any monks are in residence these days. There is a school in part of the facility.
The king who set up the monastery had apartments there, too. Out of his window he could see the garden. They still have a garden there.
This is an old-school knot garden with flowers between the little hedges. There is a little lookout where we stood to take the picture.
Weather here is a drier version of Texas now, getting close to a dry 100F every afternoon. I have begun drinking white wine instead of red because it will be served cool. Another option is to have sangria, which always has ice chunks in it.
Today we went out to the famous El Escorial monastery and royal residence.
First we went to our local Metro station and rode to the Moncloa interchange. Then we boarded a bus and rode for over an hour (it was rush hour) to the village 50 km from Madrid and strolled from the bus station to the monastery.
There is a lot of beautiful and edifying art there. The museum does not have a bin ov prints of art works to buy, nor does it have a Print on Demand kiosk in the gift shop. (Sad) They should get with the Prado or the Muso Thyssen-Bournemisza about how to set it up. Really. There were some paintings that I would love to have a print of hanging there.
There is a basilica which is beautiful and full of art. It has an Adoration chapel, too. It wasn't clear to me whether any monks are in residence these days. There is a school in part of the facility.
The king who set up the monastery had apartments there, too. Out of his window he could see the garden. They still have a garden there.
Weather here is a drier version of Texas now, getting close to a dry 100F every afternoon. I have begun drinking white wine instead of red because it will be served cool. Another option is to have sangria, which always has ice chunks in it.
Sunday, June 24, 2018
St. Michael's Basilica, Madrid
Hello, everyone.
Today we walked around and found Mass at what, for Madrid, is almost the crack of dawn: 10:30 in the morning. We were at the Basilica of St. Michael, which is also the nunciature (Vatican embassy basically) to Spain.
I took a photo of the altar a few minutes before Mass began.
The large painting shows St. Michael holding his banner as Satan falls down into the eternal trash burn. His banner has the Latin for "who is like unto God" written on it. Assorted other angels are in the area but St. Michael is the clear focus. Unseen here is a rear access passage that allowed the priest to go behind the altar and open the Tabernacle door during Mass to get out the ciborium.
The old altar, higher up and holding the Tabernacle, has 6 large candlesticks. The lower altar, which was the one used, has 6 lighter-weight candlesticks and a crucifix. I couldn't tell from my seat but this crucifix reminded me of the many old stone Camino markers that are a crucifix on one side and a figure of the Pieta or Mary praying on the other. The altar crucifix faced the priest and it looked like a figure of Mary praying might be on the part that faced the congregation.
The Tabernacle had a lace veil that just covered the front. (The actual door was on the back side.) The veil was translucent white with maybe flowers.
The altar has an altar rail, too. Using it made distributing Holy Communion go very fast, as everyone knew or instantly figured out what to do.
As we're winding down for a few days there may be fewer posts for a day or three.
Today we walked around and found Mass at what, for Madrid, is almost the crack of dawn: 10:30 in the morning. We were at the Basilica of St. Michael, which is also the nunciature (Vatican embassy basically) to Spain.
I took a photo of the altar a few minutes before Mass began.
The old altar, higher up and holding the Tabernacle, has 6 large candlesticks. The lower altar, which was the one used, has 6 lighter-weight candlesticks and a crucifix. I couldn't tell from my seat but this crucifix reminded me of the many old stone Camino markers that are a crucifix on one side and a figure of the Pieta or Mary praying on the other. The altar crucifix faced the priest and it looked like a figure of Mary praying might be on the part that faced the congregation.
The Tabernacle had a lace veil that just covered the front. (The actual door was on the back side.) The veil was translucent white with maybe flowers.
The altar has an altar rail, too. Using it made distributing Holy Communion go very fast, as everyone knew or instantly figured out what to do.
As we're winding down for a few days there may be fewer posts for a day or three.
Friday, June 22, 2018
In Santiago, third day
Hello, everyone.
After tending to the Compostela paperwork on Wednesday afternoon--there was a line but it moved right along--and tons of educational stuff yesterday, today we got down to the whole reason for the pilgrimage. We visited the tomb of the Apostle and went to Mass. Your blogger also got into the line for the traditional embrace of the Apostle's bust, and spent some precious moments in the Capilla del Sanctissimo, adoring and giving thanks. (Not even thought of in various guide books, but highly recommended.)
While in line to embrace the bust, a longer line than to reverence the Apostle's remains, your blogger happened to notice glass windows in the elaborate structure of the altar. One appears to show the top of the tomb chamber. Unfortunately the line was moving just a little too fast to use the tablet for a photo, so that picture is not in this post.
Instead, a picture of the cross above the Holy Door, which is shaped just like the Cross of Victory from Covadonga. The cross on the roof of the Cathedral above the tomb is also this same, distinctive shape.
The circle framing the cross is additional. The Alpha and Omega symbols hanging from the arms, however, are part of the original.
The Cathedral has Masses running at frequent times, in an assortment of common pilgrims' languages. We went to the English language Mass. It came just after the Italian and possibly the French. (With all those side chapels they can do that.) I saw a sign advising pilgrims of a German Mass in the evenings, too.
There are a number of confessionals along the side walls, too. They are all of the enclosed seat for the priest, open kneeler for the penitent variety. Often the priest has a sign posted giving the languages he is able to hear penitents' confessions in.
It is said that arriving in Santiago is not the end of the Camino, but the beginning of the rest of the Camino, which the pilgrim enters when departing for home. Certainly the pilgrim who looks at himself will find he has growth to continue.
Ultreia.
After tending to the Compostela paperwork on Wednesday afternoon--there was a line but it moved right along--and tons of educational stuff yesterday, today we got down to the whole reason for the pilgrimage. We visited the tomb of the Apostle and went to Mass. Your blogger also got into the line for the traditional embrace of the Apostle's bust, and spent some precious moments in the Capilla del Sanctissimo, adoring and giving thanks. (Not even thought of in various guide books, but highly recommended.)
While in line to embrace the bust, a longer line than to reverence the Apostle's remains, your blogger happened to notice glass windows in the elaborate structure of the altar. One appears to show the top of the tomb chamber. Unfortunately the line was moving just a little too fast to use the tablet for a photo, so that picture is not in this post.
Instead, a picture of the cross above the Holy Door, which is shaped just like the Cross of Victory from Covadonga. The cross on the roof of the Cathedral above the tomb is also this same, distinctive shape.
The Cathedral has Masses running at frequent times, in an assortment of common pilgrims' languages. We went to the English language Mass. It came just after the Italian and possibly the French. (With all those side chapels they can do that.) I saw a sign advising pilgrims of a German Mass in the evenings, too.
There are a number of confessionals along the side walls, too. They are all of the enclosed seat for the priest, open kneeler for the penitent variety. Often the priest has a sign posted giving the languages he is able to hear penitents' confessions in.
It is said that arriving in Santiago is not the end of the Camino, but the beginning of the rest of the Camino, which the pilgrim enters when departing for home. Certainly the pilgrim who looks at himself will find he has growth to continue.
Ultreia.
Thursday, June 21, 2018
In Santiago, 2nd day
Hello, everyone.
Today, one of our planned rest days, we put walking shoes back on our feet and went discovering things.
We visited the church and museum of the Benedictinas, San Paio Antealtares, on the Rua Sacra. The church was using a tabernacle veil--a cloth in the seasonal color that covers the Tabernacle. There were a number of Benedictine saints depicted in paintings in their museum.
We went to the Cathedral Museum, something we had never done before. It is in parts, and the ticket gets you into various things. (Pilgrims who have their credencial get a discount.)
We went to the train station. Yes, it still has about a hundred and ten steps to get down to the actual station level.
Then we walked over to Sta. Maria de Saa, the parish church of the city. This is one of the parts included in the Cathedral Museum ticket. They close at 2 pm for siesta but we saw a number of interesting things there.
And for the capstone, we took the rooftop tour of the Cathedral roof. This was very interesting. Also quite athletic as there were many, many steps to ascend and descend.
Instead of eating formal dinner we ate tapas at Abaste (sp?) which is adjacent to the mercado of Santiago. We shared some really wonderful food there, a "ceviche" which was really a Spanish version of sea bass sashimi, and grilled octopus. These tapas filled us up and we called it a day.
Today, one of our planned rest days, we put walking shoes back on our feet and went discovering things.
We visited the church and museum of the Benedictinas, San Paio Antealtares, on the Rua Sacra. The church was using a tabernacle veil--a cloth in the seasonal color that covers the Tabernacle. There were a number of Benedictine saints depicted in paintings in their museum.
We went to the Cathedral Museum, something we had never done before. It is in parts, and the ticket gets you into various things. (Pilgrims who have their credencial get a discount.)
We went to the train station. Yes, it still has about a hundred and ten steps to get down to the actual station level.
Then we walked over to Sta. Maria de Saa, the parish church of the city. This is one of the parts included in the Cathedral Museum ticket. They close at 2 pm for siesta but we saw a number of interesting things there.
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| These buttresses were added to counteract the soggy soil in the area, which is near the river |
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| The altar of the church. There is a remnant of medieval painting on the dome above the altar. |
And for the capstone, we took the rooftop tour of the Cathedral roof. This was very interesting. Also quite athletic as there were many, many steps to ascend and descend.
Instead of eating formal dinner we ate tapas at Abaste (sp?) which is adjacent to the mercado of Santiago. We shared some really wonderful food there, a "ceviche" which was really a Spanish version of sea bass sashimi, and grilled octopus. These tapas filled us up and we called it a day.
Wednesday, June 20, 2018
In Santiago!
Hello, everyone.
Yesterday we crossed paths with a "gran colegio", a student group. Today we were intermittently in the midst of the about 100 Italian teenagers. They were going as a group, walking the last 100 km, with their bags transported and snacks provided. Before we all say, "must be the life," I think we should remember that this multiday walk covering about 62 miles is probably the longest walk the kids have ever had. All the same, one of the girls alternated between spinning her hiking pole like it should be a baton and trying to jump over it. Ah, youth!
We call groups like this The Childrens' Brigade. We're so used to being mostly alone and with the people walking with us going quietly as they each strive for the goal that it's hard to remember that the Camino is for everyone.
We got into Santiago today around noon.
Routes in the area of Lavacolla are not what we remember from 4 years ago. There is road construction in the area.
A little photo I want to share, the front facade of the Cathedral here in Santiago. The big cleaning project is moving along and the difference is amazing.
Ultreia.
Yesterday we crossed paths with a "gran colegio", a student group. Today we were intermittently in the midst of the about 100 Italian teenagers. They were going as a group, walking the last 100 km, with their bags transported and snacks provided. Before we all say, "must be the life," I think we should remember that this multiday walk covering about 62 miles is probably the longest walk the kids have ever had. All the same, one of the girls alternated between spinning her hiking pole like it should be a baton and trying to jump over it. Ah, youth!
We call groups like this The Childrens' Brigade. We're so used to being mostly alone and with the people walking with us going quietly as they each strive for the goal that it's hard to remember that the Camino is for everyone.
We got into Santiago today around noon.
Routes in the area of Lavacolla are not what we remember from 4 years ago. There is road construction in the area.
A little photo I want to share, the front facade of the Cathedral here in Santiago. The big cleaning project is moving along and the difference is amazing.
Tuesday, June 19, 2018
O Pedrouzo, also called Arca dos Pinos
Hello, everyone.
We walked about 20 km this morning and reached O Pedrouzo about 12:30 or so.
It's a lovely, warm day out, so I hung all of our socks and towels on the line when I put the rest in the dryer.
We're staying in a nice albergue on the main street here. We're even next to a grocery store. There is a decorative almost-atrium in our dorm room.
The proprietor likes to play calming music--not elevator stuff, it's a little more elevated--so I am lying on my bunk being soothed while typing. (This is a nicer place than the state run albergues.)
We were having a rest break today and watching our fellow pilgrims walk by. As it was the second to last day of walking for everyone and most of the routes have blended into one, it was a parade.
Tomorrow about 20km to Santiago.
Ultreia.
We walked about 20 km this morning and reached O Pedrouzo about 12:30 or so.
It's a lovely, warm day out, so I hung all of our socks and towels on the line when I put the rest in the dryer.
We're staying in a nice albergue on the main street here. We're even next to a grocery store. There is a decorative almost-atrium in our dorm room.
We were having a rest break today and watching our fellow pilgrims walk by. As it was the second to last day of walking for everyone and most of the routes have blended into one, it was a parade.
Tomorrow about 20km to Santiago.
Ultreia.
Monday, June 18, 2018
Arzua: we join the Ruta Francés
Hello everyone.
Before other things, I noticed that a word was omitted from yesterday's post. The Monasterio in Sobrado has almost nothing left of the original decorations. In fact, one of the cloisters, when it fell into other hands, was actually quarried to sell the dressed granite as building material.
Today we got out, not really early, but early enough at about 0730, and made it to Arzua about noon-thirty. It has been nice and sunny walking weather, too.
We're staying at the Albergue O Santo, on the square.
Of note if you're looking at these issues, the Camino del Norte comes into the town about half of the way through. There is a whole flock of places to stay clustered around where the French Way enters town. We are staying near where the Norte enters town, on the way out.
You can see our towels drying on the little balcony.
Tomorrow we will head towards O Pedrouzo, along with the other pilgrims from various routes. (By this time the pilgrims from the Via de la Plata and the Madrid route have also joined the flow.)
Ultreia.
Before other things, I noticed that a word was omitted from yesterday's post. The Monasterio in Sobrado has almost nothing left of the original decorations. In fact, one of the cloisters, when it fell into other hands, was actually quarried to sell the dressed granite as building material.
Today we got out, not really early, but early enough at about 0730, and made it to Arzua about noon-thirty. It has been nice and sunny walking weather, too.
We're staying at the Albergue O Santo, on the square.
Of note if you're looking at these issues, the Camino del Norte comes into the town about half of the way through. There is a whole flock of places to stay clustered around where the French Way enters town. We are staying near where the Norte enters town, on the way out.
You can see our towels drying on the little balcony.
Tomorrow we will head towards O Pedrouzo, along with the other pilgrims from various routes. (By this time the pilgrims from the Via de la Plata and the Madrid route have also joined the flow.)
Ultreia.
Sunday, June 17, 2018
Sobrado dos Monxes
Hello, everyone.
We reached Sobrado dos Monxes in good time today, a walk of 25 km. We took a rest break a couple of times, at the places we found cafe-bars. As the internet here is being slow, there will be only one picture.
Point of information on the name of the town: the monastery here was founded in the tenth century as a pair of Benedictine monasteries. (One male and one female) About two centuries later, the Benedictine foundation apparently gone, the original donors' heirs offered the property to St. Bernard of Clairveaux for use as a Cistercian monastery. There were many ups and downs over the centuries and now there are about 20 Cistercian brothers living there. They welcome pilgrims in fulfillment of one of their long time customs.
The buildings were heavily damaged in the years after the Spanish kings confiscated all the male monasteries in Spain because not only were the brothers chased out, but the king's desire for funds led to sales of the properties seized. As a result the present church and cloister has needed much repair and almost of the previous furnishings remain.
The dome at the crossing of the nave.
Tomorrow we will walk to Arzua.
Ultreia.
We reached Sobrado dos Monxes in good time today, a walk of 25 km. We took a rest break a couple of times, at the places we found cafe-bars. As the internet here is being slow, there will be only one picture.
Point of information on the name of the town: the monastery here was founded in the tenth century as a pair of Benedictine monasteries. (One male and one female) About two centuries later, the Benedictine foundation apparently gone, the original donors' heirs offered the property to St. Bernard of Clairveaux for use as a Cistercian monastery. There were many ups and downs over the centuries and now there are about 20 Cistercian brothers living there. They welcome pilgrims in fulfillment of one of their long time customs.
The buildings were heavily damaged in the years after the Spanish kings confiscated all the male monasteries in Spain because not only were the brothers chased out, but the king's desire for funds led to sales of the properties seized. As a result the present church and cloister has needed much repair and almost of the previous furnishings remain.
Tomorrow we will walk to Arzua.
Ultreia.
Saturday, June 16, 2018
85 kilometers left to walk
Hello,everyone.
I wanted to say WOO HOO but that is entirely premature. We have, however, begun to get two sellos per day.
It was cool this morning but not actually cold. The sum came out after a while and it's settled into a beautiful warm day with light breezes.
A little program note: we may not have wifi available tomorrow.
Tonight we are staying at the privately owned albergue in Miraz. It was a short travel day, but tomorrow is set to be 25 km so it all balances out.
This is the sculpture in the garden here.
That's all for today.
Ultreia.
I wanted to say WOO HOO but that is entirely premature. We have, however, begun to get two sellos per day.
It was cool this morning but not actually cold. The sum came out after a while and it's settled into a beautiful warm day with light breezes.
A little program note: we may not have wifi available tomorrow.
Tonight we are staying at the privately owned albergue in Miraz. It was a short travel day, but tomorrow is set to be 25 km so it all balances out.
This is the sculpture in the garden here.
Ultreia.
Friday, June 15, 2018
Baamonde!
Hello, everyone.
We walked 20 km today, in good weather. In Baamonde, the 100 kilometer town, we have found three cafes and 1 tiny grocery store.
I will try to photograph the 100 km marker tomorrow on the way out.
Plan for tomorrow, 15 km to Miraz. Next day, 25 km to Sobrado dos Monjes. There is light at the end of the tunnel.
Ultreia.
We walked 20 km today, in good weather. In Baamonde, the 100 kilometer town, we have found three cafes and 1 tiny grocery store.
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| The name of one of the cafes. |
Plan for tomorrow, 15 km to Miraz. Next day, 25 km to Sobrado dos Monjes. There is light at the end of the tunnel.
Ultreia.
Thursday, June 14, 2018
Vilalba
Hello, everyone.
We had a shorter walk today, about 20 km, and we are in a small hotel in Vilalba.
This tower is unusual because it is still standing. In about the 13th century there were a lot of peasant revolts around Europe, Spain included, and many of the nobility's towers and castles were burned down. The tower has been converted into a Parador hotel.
We had a fairly easy walk today, chilly sometimes, and got into town around 2 pm.
Tomorrow we will head towards Baamonde.
Ultreia.
We had a shorter walk today, about 20 km, and we are in a small hotel in Vilalba.
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| The Tower of the Counts of Vilalba |
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| Chapel of San Rocque in Vilalba |
Tomorrow we will head towards Baamonde.
Ultreia.
Wednesday, June 13, 2018
Abedin: Xabarin albergue
Hello, everyone.
We walked 24 or 25 km today, a few big ups and downs and a slew of mostly even grade. We visited the cathedral of Mondonedo--not to miss if in the area--and ended up jn Abadin. We are at the albergue of Xabarin, a lovely modern facility with great showers, comfortable beds, and other nice amenities.
DH wants it mentioned ghat there were dome ddmandi g ups and downs. We saw the ruins of a fortification from the Spaniards' late unpleasantness of the 1930's, possibly an ancient stone construction, and an abandoned mill. Also mang flowers.
View of the area during our walk, around noon.
We see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Possibly 9 more days of walking.
We shall see.
Ultreia.
We walked 24 or 25 km today, a few big ups and downs and a slew of mostly even grade. We visited the cathedral of Mondonedo--not to miss if in the area--and ended up jn Abadin. We are at the albergue of Xabarin, a lovely modern facility with great showers, comfortable beds, and other nice amenities.
DH wants it mentioned ghat there were dome ddmandi g ups and downs. We saw the ruins of a fortification from the Spaniards' late unpleasantness of the 1930's, possibly an ancient stone construction, and an abandoned mill. Also mang flowers.
 |
| Mileage marker. The ones in Galicia include distances! |
We shall see.
Ultreia.
Tuesday, June 12, 2018
Lourenza
Hello, everyone.
As y'all may remember, we had a short day yesterday. We only covered about half of a usual distance. We did laundry at the laundromat (lavanderia) and went to bed early.
Today, it worked out that we made up for the short day--walking about 29 km. This part of the Camino del Norte is a bit like Highway 281 south of Falfurrias in one way. It's off in the middle of farms and not a whole lot of travelers' services. We were fortunate enough to be walking along the road when a friendly man in a car stopped. (No, he wasn't offering candy! Wash your mind out!) He gave us a flyer for a new albergue in Lourenza. Where we were pretty sure we would be sleeping anyway. The Albergue Castelos is new, and well thought out. We are in side by side bottom bunks, which have decent headroom for us.
The front of our albergue for today.
The weather continues cold (the news said it has been 10C colder than usual. Brrr!) And today we got no sunshine. But we're comfortable and hoping for a shorter day tomorrow.
Ultreia.
As y'all may remember, we had a short day yesterday. We only covered about half of a usual distance. We did laundry at the laundromat (lavanderia) and went to bed early.
Today, it worked out that we made up for the short day--walking about 29 km. This part of the Camino del Norte is a bit like Highway 281 south of Falfurrias in one way. It's off in the middle of farms and not a whole lot of travelers' services. We were fortunate enough to be walking along the road when a friendly man in a car stopped. (No, he wasn't offering candy! Wash your mind out!) He gave us a flyer for a new albergue in Lourenza. Where we were pretty sure we would be sleeping anyway. The Albergue Castelos is new, and well thought out. We are in side by side bottom bunks, which have decent headroom for us.
The weather continues cold (the news said it has been 10C colder than usual. Brrr!) And today we got no sunshine. But we're comfortable and hoping for a shorter day tomorrow.
Ultreia.
Monday, June 11, 2018
We have had two beautiful walking days in a row
Hello, everyone.
We have indeed had good walking mornings, actually for the mornings. I am coming to think that spring in northern Spain has daytime heating rainstorms. So if you are out walking just after sunrise and it's great weather, you should get your kilometers done before around three in the afternoon. After then, you might be caught in the daily drench.
Yesterday we walked from Villapedre to Tapia de Casariego, a smallish resort town on the coast.
I will admit that the online comments about the scenery blinded me. The municipal albergue at Tapia de Casariego does indeed have great views of the ocean, the rock beach, and the sky. It also has at most one washtub to do laundry. The clothesline is under the sky. Remember what I said about the afternoon rain? I ran like a crazy to get the things inside when it started!
Today we took a short day and are staying in Ribadeo.
No pictures today because Blogger put my pictures into limbo.
Tomorrow we turn away from the coast and begin angling southwest toward Santiago.
Ultreia.
We have indeed had good walking mornings, actually for the mornings. I am coming to think that spring in northern Spain has daytime heating rainstorms. So if you are out walking just after sunrise and it's great weather, you should get your kilometers done before around three in the afternoon. After then, you might be caught in the daily drench.
Yesterday we walked from Villapedre to Tapia de Casariego, a smallish resort town on the coast.
I will admit that the online comments about the scenery blinded me. The municipal albergue at Tapia de Casariego does indeed have great views of the ocean, the rock beach, and the sky. It also has at most one washtub to do laundry. The clothesline is under the sky. Remember what I said about the afternoon rain? I ran like a crazy to get the things inside when it started!
Today we took a short day and are staying in Ribadeo.
No pictures today because Blogger put my pictures into limbo.
Tomorrow we turn away from the coast and begin angling southwest toward Santiago.
Ultreia.
Saturday, June 9, 2018
A beautiful day for walking
Hello, everyone.
Today, for the first time in a while, we had mostly sunshine overhead. It started out cool and never got hot.
We got to Luarca, port town, at nearly noon, then kept on until Villapedre. This is a smallish village with a beach. We found 2 hotels (one is a Casa Rural) and 2 restaurants here.
Tonight we have a room in the Hotel Pinar, on a hill just 100 meters from the restaurants here.
(It's important to accept what comes on the pilgrimage. Even the struggle to get through mud and rain works out overall. If we hadn't missed our turn yesterday we wouldn't have stayed at Hotel Canero, and sleeping there set us up to stop here for the night. Which is lovely. And a short day was welcome.)
This is the harbor at Luarca. They have a light tower at the entrance that looks like a rocket ship. The town is very hilly and full of cobblestone streets.
Today, for the first time in a while, we had mostly sunshine overhead. It started out cool and never got hot.
We got to Luarca, port town, at nearly noon, then kept on until Villapedre. This is a smallish village with a beach. We found 2 hotels (one is a Casa Rural) and 2 restaurants here.
Tonight we have a room in the Hotel Pinar, on a hill just 100 meters from the restaurants here.
(It's important to accept what comes on the pilgrimage. Even the struggle to get through mud and rain works out overall. If we hadn't missed our turn yesterday we wouldn't have stayed at Hotel Canero, and sleeping there set us up to stop here for the night. Which is lovely. And a short day was welcome.)
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| Our room tonight |
Ultreia.
Friday, June 8, 2018
Cañero, a lovely spot with a beach
Hello, everyone.
Tonight, after accidentally walking 6 km too far, we are staying at the friendly and cozy Hotel Canero. It is in the tiny village of Cañero, and if it weren't raining we would go down to the beach.
Unfortunately the day began with rain and has kept it up most of the day. We didn't realize what the weather would likly be when we left from Soto la Luiña this morning, so we headed up to the scenic mountain route to our day's destination. Famous last words as they say! We found many low muddy spots on the trail, and then it took off through some cow pastures. The trail, being the lowest spot around, was a running stream. But eventually we came down, missed the turn to our destination, and ended up here instead. But this is a delightful place!
These are two of the items in the menu del dia for today.
Homemade chicken noodle soup was the soup of the day. Eat your hearts out, Campbells!
This was the dessert, a house made fresh cheese sprinkled with sugar--it's a Spanish thing I guess--and drizzled with honey. I forgot to photograph the little peppers stuffed with fish and accompanied by potatoes. We ate them too fast for pictures.
Ultreia.
Tonight, after accidentally walking 6 km too far, we are staying at the friendly and cozy Hotel Canero. It is in the tiny village of Cañero, and if it weren't raining we would go down to the beach.
Unfortunately the day began with rain and has kept it up most of the day. We didn't realize what the weather would likly be when we left from Soto la Luiña this morning, so we headed up to the scenic mountain route to our day's destination. Famous last words as they say! We found many low muddy spots on the trail, and then it took off through some cow pastures. The trail, being the lowest spot around, was a running stream. But eventually we came down, missed the turn to our destination, and ended up here instead. But this is a delightful place!
These are two of the items in the menu del dia for today.
This was the dessert, a house made fresh cheese sprinkled with sugar--it's a Spanish thing I guess--and drizzled with honey. I forgot to photograph the little peppers stuffed with fish and accompanied by potatoes. We ate them too fast for pictures.
Ultreia.
Thursday, June 7, 2018
Soto la luiña
Hello everyone.
This is just a brief post today. We're at the Bar Ecu, eating pinxtos and drinking, while the clothes dryer runs. No time foi pictures to upload!
Today we walked 29 km with many ups and downs. There were a lot of muddy patches and our hiking poles got a workout! I had to pre rinse our pant legs before putting them in the wash load, they were just caked.
Tomorrow we will head towards head towards Cadavedo. There are 2 routes, a highway one (not all on highways, lots of ups and downs, but lots of services) and a mountain one (no services for about 12 miles, but fewer ups and downs and much less walking at the edge of a national highway. Think the old US highways for this. Not expressways. Not little things that approximate farm to market roads without shoulders.
It's almost time for the dryer to finish.
Ultreia.
This is just a brief post today. We're at the Bar Ecu, eating pinxtos and drinking, while the clothes dryer runs. No time foi pictures to upload!
Today we walked 29 km with many ups and downs. There were a lot of muddy patches and our hiking poles got a workout! I had to pre rinse our pant legs before putting them in the wash load, they were just caked.
Tomorrow we will head towards head towards Cadavedo. There are 2 routes, a highway one (not all on highways, lots of ups and downs, but lots of services) and a mountain one (no services for about 12 miles, but fewer ups and downs and much less walking at the edge of a national highway. Think the old US highways for this. Not expressways. Not little things that approximate farm to market roads without shoulders.
It's almost time for the dryer to finish.
Ultreia.
Wednesday, June 6, 2018
San Martin de Laspra, on a hilltop
Hello, everyone.
Yesterday we visited the Museum of Fine Arts in Oviedo. It is centered on Astorga-connected artists and most of the exhibited works are paintings from around the turn of the last century. Some were a little bit pointillist, and the actual subjects were more visible from across the gallery. It seems to shut out a lot of potential buyers whose houses don't have 15 foot sight lines to view the paintings. IMHO.
Today, after leaving our room in the Pension Fidalgo, we visited the Archeological Museum of Astorga.
(Both of these museums are very close to the Cathedral.)
We really enjoyed our visit. There are a LOT of caves with prehistoric material in Astorga, with remains and artifacts over a very long period. Neanderthal man left a lot of stuff behind here, and modern man also has been in Iberia for a very long time.
The museum also covers the hill fort culture, Roman era things, the middle ages with emphasis on Astorga, and some photos of Covadonga from the last century.
Retablo of the Cathedral in Astorga. (Other Oviedo pictures are all in the regular camera.)
Tomorrow we may get as far as Soto la Luiña. With bonus grocry buying in Muros de Nalon, which is about 2/3 of the way there. Soto is at the start of a stretch with few or no services, they say, so we have to line up food for the next day before getting there. Sardines and crackers, here we come.
Ultreia.
Yesterday we visited the Museum of Fine Arts in Oviedo. It is centered on Astorga-connected artists and most of the exhibited works are paintings from around the turn of the last century. Some were a little bit pointillist, and the actual subjects were more visible from across the gallery. It seems to shut out a lot of potential buyers whose houses don't have 15 foot sight lines to view the paintings. IMHO.
Today, after leaving our room in the Pension Fidalgo, we visited the Archeological Museum of Astorga.
(Both of these museums are very close to the Cathedral.)
We really enjoyed our visit. There are a LOT of caves with prehistoric material in Astorga, with remains and artifacts over a very long period. Neanderthal man left a lot of stuff behind here, and modern man also has been in Iberia for a very long time.
The museum also covers the hill fort culture, Roman era things, the middle ages with emphasis on Astorga, and some photos of Covadonga from the last century.
Tomorrow we may get as far as Soto la Luiña. With bonus grocry buying in Muros de Nalon, which is about 2/3 of the way there. Soto is at the start of a stretch with few or no services, they say, so we have to line up food for the next day before getting there. Sardines and crackers, here we come.
Ultreia.
Monday, June 4, 2018
New Food Discovery: Cachopo
Hello everyone.
The other day, in Columbres, the albergue served a supper to us. The first course--all pilgrim meals come in courses for some reason--was a tomato pasta with chicken in it for the meat. I had never had chicken pasta, but it was edible. Bland but edible. The second course was a breaded meat thing with cheese in the middle. I had never seen it before. But here it is on the promo things on the wall of a restaurant.
I guess it's better when fresh-made. I wasn't thrilled with it at first meeting, but it might have been freezer-fast-food.
Tonight we had natural cidre, complete with showman-like pours, and some bread and a tabla (tray) of Asturian cheeses. There was a slab of membrillo (probably quince paste) on the tray, too. Let me tell y'all, quince paste (or fig paste) is da bomb when combined with cheese and a bit of bread. Angels sing about this. Really.
We're staying in Oviedo for two nights. Already visited the Cathedral and the room of relics, which includes the Holy Sudario. (There doesn't appear to be a word for sudario in English. This is the cloth that was laid over the head of Jesus when He laid in the tomb. (Y'all will remember that the Gospel states that the cloth from His head, called in Spanish the sudario, was laid separately and folded when the apostles ran to the tomb. (Jesus was a good son, He folded up His bedding when He got up!)
I can't express what a priviledge it was to be mere feet away from this sacred bit of cloth. Words just aren't up to it.
It's bed time, so I will close this.
Ultreia.
The other day, in Columbres, the albergue served a supper to us. The first course--all pilgrim meals come in courses for some reason--was a tomato pasta with chicken in it for the meat. I had never had chicken pasta, but it was edible. Bland but edible. The second course was a breaded meat thing with cheese in the middle. I had never seen it before. But here it is on the promo things on the wall of a restaurant.
Tonight we had natural cidre, complete with showman-like pours, and some bread and a tabla (tray) of Asturian cheeses. There was a slab of membrillo (probably quince paste) on the tray, too. Let me tell y'all, quince paste (or fig paste) is da bomb when combined with cheese and a bit of bread. Angels sing about this. Really.
We're staying in Oviedo for two nights. Already visited the Cathedral and the room of relics, which includes the Holy Sudario. (There doesn't appear to be a word for sudario in English. This is the cloth that was laid over the head of Jesus when He laid in the tomb. (Y'all will remember that the Gospel states that the cloth from His head, called in Spanish the sudario, was laid separately and folded when the apostles ran to the tomb. (Jesus was a good son, He folded up His bedding when He got up!)
I can't express what a priviledge it was to be mere feet away from this sacred bit of cloth. Words just aren't up to it.
It's bed time, so I will close this.
Ultreia.
Just a brief note
Hello everyone.
We stayed in Pension Paseo Real in Cangas de Onis last night. Nice bed. Our private bath was across the hall, but spotless, and we had a key for its door.
Now in Oviedo, will try to make a bigger post later.
Ultreia
We stayed in Pension Paseo Real in Cangas de Onis last night. Nice bed. Our private bath was across the hall, but spotless, and we had a key for its door.
Now in Oviedo, will try to make a bigger post later.
Ultreia
Saturday, June 2, 2018
Last night bad wifi, tonight in Llanes
Hello, everyone.
Last night we were in Columbres, a village not directly on the coast. The weather reflects the nearness of the Cantabrian Sea, and it was doing the chilly-drizzle thing when we arrived at the edge of town. We walked around 28 kilometers yesterday. In Columbres we found Bar Mexicano. The bar is run by several Mexican fellows from Michoacan, one of tbe southern states of Mexico.
Today we walked a smaller distance, but part of it was on the GR trail E9, along the coast. Many cows, many goats, some sheep. I saw wild chamomile growing. And we have seen the home of the famous Bufone, a natural geyser like explosion of the sea through a natural tunnel in the midst of grass and rocks. We were looking at it with a friendly group of young Spaniards. One of the gals told us that the bufones can be dangerous in the afternoon when they get wild and throw salt water out of the mouth of the tunnel. It was late morning so the bufone wss noisy but the water wasn't actually splashing out.
One of the trails we were on today. Some of the GR trails don't seem to be up to date on trail maintenance. We had to give up and go back to the road on this one!
Tonight we are in an albergue in Llanes.
Tomorrow we intend to depart from the all-walking program and ride a bus over to Covadonga, a Marian shrine and the beginning of the Reconquista.
Ultreia.
Last night we were in Columbres, a village not directly on the coast. The weather reflects the nearness of the Cantabrian Sea, and it was doing the chilly-drizzle thing when we arrived at the edge of town. We walked around 28 kilometers yesterday. In Columbres we found Bar Mexicano. The bar is run by several Mexican fellows from Michoacan, one of tbe southern states of Mexico.
Today we walked a smaller distance, but part of it was on the GR trail E9, along the coast. Many cows, many goats, some sheep. I saw wild chamomile growing. And we have seen the home of the famous Bufone, a natural geyser like explosion of the sea through a natural tunnel in the midst of grass and rocks. We were looking at it with a friendly group of young Spaniards. One of the gals told us that the bufones can be dangerous in the afternoon when they get wild and throw salt water out of the mouth of the tunnel. It was late morning so the bufone wss noisy but the water wasn't actually splashing out.
Tonight we are in an albergue in Llanes.
Tomorrow we intend to depart from the all-walking program and ride a bus over to Covadonga, a Marian shrine and the beginning of the Reconquista.
Ultreia.
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